Returning Home: A Journey Through Changing Turkey

When I stepped off the plane in Istanbul after nearly two decades abroad, I braced myself for what I imagined would be an unrecognizable Turkey. The country I left behind seemed a distant memory, replaced in my mind by news headlines of President Erdogan’s long rule and fears of creeping Islamization. But as I soon discovered, the reality on the ground was far more nuanced and surprising than I could have anticipated.

The first thing that struck me was what hadn’t changed. Despite Erdogan’s leadership since 2002 and his party’s religious roots, the secular foundation laid by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk nearly a century ago remains remarkably resilient. Yes, there are more visible signs of religiosity in public life – more women wearing headscarves, more religious programming on television – but these surface-level changes belie a deeper commitment to secularism that persists across much of Turkish society.

One of the most positive changes I noticed was the decreased discrimination against women who choose to wear the turban (headscarf). In the past, these women often faced significant barriers in education and employment. Now, while challenges certainly remain, there’s a greater acceptance of personal religious expression that doesn’t come at the expense of participation in public life. This shift represents a maturation of Turkish secularism, one that allows for greater individual freedom while maintaining the separation of religion and state.

Of course, it would be naive to suggest that Erdogan’s government hasn’t tilted the scales in favor of religious organizations. There’s no denying the increased funding and support for Islamic institutions and initiatives. However, what struck me was the vigor with which the opposition continues to defend the principles of secularism. Far from being a settled issue, the role of religion in public life remains a hotly debated topic, with passionate advocates on all sides.

Perhaps the most unexpected realization came when I compared my observations in Turkey to what I knew of the United States. In many ways, Turkey seemed more secular than America, a notion that would have seemed absurd to me years ago. While religion certainly plays a role in Turkish politics, it doesn’t dominate the discourse to the same degree as in the U.S. Contentious issues like abortion and prostitution, which often become religious flashpoints in American politics, remain legal and are rarely central to political debates in Turkey.

Turkish Islamists and American Evangelicals: Similarities and Differences
The parallels between Turkish Islamists and American Evangelicals are fascinating and, at times, disconcerting. Both groups wield significant political influence and share conservative social values. I was surprised to learn that many Islamist parents in Turkey even use translated American Evangelical texts to educate their children on religious matters. This cross-pollination of ideas speaks to the increasingly global nature of religious movements in the 21st century.

However, one crucial difference stands out: the relationship with science. While both groups may have their disagreements with certain scientific theories (evolutionary biology being the prime example), Turkish Islamists generally hold science and scientists in high regard. This became particularly evident during the COVID-19 pandemic. When it was announced that one of the lead scientists behind the BioNTech-Pfizer vaccine was of Turkish descent, there was a palpable sense of pride across the political and religious spectrum.

This respect for scientific achievement extends to other areas as well. Unlike some of their American counterparts, Turkish creationists don’t insist on a literal six-day creation story. Instead, they interpret the “days” mentioned in religious texts as vast eras, aligning more closely with scientific understanding of Earth’s 4.5-billion-year history. While this may seem like a small concession, it represents a significant difference in approach – one that allows for a coexistence of religious belief and scientific fact.

The words of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, echo in my mind as I reflect on these observations: “In human life, you will find players of religion until the knowledge and proficiency in religion will be cleansed from all superstitions, and will be purified and perfected by the enlightenment of real science.”

This sentiment seems to capture the ongoing evolution of Turkish society – a gradual reconciliation of religious tradition with modern scientific understanding. It’s a process that’s far from complete, but the progress is undeniable.

So what does all of this mean for Turkey and its place in the world?

First and foremost, it highlights the complexity of secularism in practice. Turkey’s experience shows that secularism isn’t a fixed state but a continuum. There are conservative secularists, liberal secularists, nationalist secularists, and even what we might call “soft secularist” Islamists. This diversity of perspectives creates a dynamic tension that, while sometimes contentious, also fosters ongoing dialogue and prevents any one group from completely dominating the narrative.

Secondly, Turkey’s journey offers an interesting counterpoint to developments in other parts of the world. While many Western countries grapple with rising religious fundamentalism and science skepticism, Turkey seems to be charting a different course. The general acceptance of scientific consensus on issues like the age of the Earth, even among religious conservatives, stands in stark contrast to the heated debates over these topics in countries like the United States.

That’s not to say Turkey is a secular utopia – far from it. The country still faces significant challenges in balancing religious freedom with secular governance. Erdogan’s government has been criticized for favoring religious institutions and eroding some of the traditional safeguards of secularism. However, the resilience of secular principles in the face of these pressures is noteworthy.

Perhaps most importantly, Turkey’s experience highlights the danger of oversimplification when it comes to understanding the relationship between religion and politics in any society. The easy narrative of Turkey becoming “Islamized” under Erdogan misses the nuanced reality on the ground. Yes, religion plays a more visible role in public life than it did two decades ago, but this hasn’t translated into the wholesale dismantling of secular institutions that many feared.

As I readjust to life in Turkey, I’m struck by how much my own perceptions have been challenged. The country I returned to is neither the fiercely secular republic I left behind nor the Islamic state I feared it might become. Instead, it’s a nation still very much in the process of defining its identity, grappling with the complex interplay of tradition and modernity, religion and secularism.

In many ways, Turkey serves as a microcosm for broader global debates about the role of religion in society. Its struggles and successes offer valuable lessons for other nations facing similar challenges. The Turkish model of secularism, while imperfect, demonstrates that it’s possible to create space for religious expression within a broadly secular framework.

As I settle back into life here, I’m filled with a mix of hope and uncertainty about Turkey’s future. The path forward is far from clear, but the ongoing vitality of debate around these issues gives me reason for optimism. Turkey’s experiment in balancing religious tradition with secular governance continues to evolve, and the world would do well to pay attention to the lessons it has to offer.

In the end, my return to Turkey has been a journey of rediscovery – not just of a changed nation, but of the complex realities that lie beneath the surface of any society. It’s a reminder that the most interesting truths are often found in the gray areas, in the spaces between the black-and-white narratives we too often rely on to make sense of the world.

As Turkey continues to navigate its unique path between East and West, tradition and modernity, religion and secularism, it offers a fascinating case study in the ongoing global conversation about the role of faith in public life. Whatever the future holds, one thing is certain: Turkey’s journey is far from over, and its story is one that will continue to surprise, challenge, and inspire for years to come.

#TurkishSecularism #ReligionAndPolitics #CulturalEvolution